I am constantly turning off the burning, which is left flaming and unattended despite a publicity campaign to get Cubans to conserve electricity. (They don't pay utility bills and sleep with the lights on and leave the gas burner flaming all day long, why should they conserve). For inexplicable reasons, Mario lights it again.
Mario is getting his head shaved. The shaver is a rocker, a spiked goatee the only hair on his head. His eyebrow ring matches those in his ears. On one leg he has a tattoo of an Indian chief, and on the other an elaborate death head figurine. On his shoulder is a black widow.
Cubans have very unoriginal tattoos.
Despite his appearance, the shaver is a jovial fellow and invites me to a heavy metal show the evening, a Cuban group, Hyptonsis. I politely say maybe. We get talking on acts that have played in Cuba: Audioslave, Air Supply, and the guy from Yes. Sepultura and Metallica want to play, and the Police are playing December 26, for free, in the Plaza de la Revolucion.
I think I'm coming back in December.